ANGELS,

A fine meal is as close to heaven as most of us will get, making "Angels" an apt name and theme for this popular Italian restaurant. The scores of menu offerings are diverse, the portions are large, and the prices are right. The Roman egg-drop soup with spinach ($3.50) was even tastier than a version my mother used to make. The "gnocchi alla Romana" ($8.95) was also pleasing, as the potato dumplings were tender, nicely garlicked and buttered, with a large dollop of ricotta in the center. Among the creative seafood offerings are smoked salmon and scallops in a dill and lemon cream sauce over spinach fettucine ($14.95). Reservations (for four or more) are recommended on weekends.